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Author Topic: My ATGC, mower beginnings  (Read 21003 times)
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ryf
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« on: April 01, 2007, 03:10:40 PM »

Ok since I'm coming over to the ATLMA side of the world, and what I'm doing may interest this site more than others... I'm posting my All Terrain Go Cart updates here, and plan to set a click to here link on my other thread on heymow.

ok in the pic below, you get a shot from the carts low back side, gives you a visual of the where whats going.


This is just a shot of the motor mount area and the sick stance from the rear.


This is just a "from the seat" shot.. the seats a little far back, but you get the idea.



Posted on: April 01, 2007, 03:09:08 PM
got alot done yesterday.... more pics are coming though, brighter outdoor pics (was raining earlier)

this is a shot of the axle and elbow protectors/ side guards... starting to look like something.


front and back shots of the shock mount area, it WILL be tied into a rollcage before its rolling, but can currently hold my weight bouncing on it (I'm a healthy 325lbs, so its safe enough) check out those hand made front a-arms!



the "far and away shot" there will be outdoor pics with more lighting later, but it was early when I got these. its sitting high in the front, keep in mind my weight, settling springs(most soften way up after a few rides), and adjusting later if needed, it'll be A-OK I think.


<snippets from the other build log>

I'm going 25 tooth tranny side to 11 tooth axle side, so I won't have to overspin the trans as much, might last longer that way. my engine is already governed to 2000 rpm (from factory) planning to leave it as such for now(note, for now).

I'm trying to figure out a good pulley size to reduce slippage.

I don't recommend welding the rear axles of most transaxles since they aren't hardened all the way through. saying that, since it will have no weight on it, I plan on welding the drive gears in place rather than pay for a keyway to be machined.

I shortened the transaxles to get inside my wheelbase and keep the length respectable (has to be under 50" wide to run in Wayne national forest)

if I had planned better, since I'm not overdriving it, I should have gotten a hydrostatic as it would've made shifting on the fly less stressfull on the tranny, maybe in version 2. i know they are not meant to be shifted on the fly, but I'll do it till it breaks and try some thing else.

Moved over to a bigger emptier garage/workshop, and took my tools with me, its my father in laws place.  got my front suspension and side protection bars mounted today, so will go back and get pics of pogress if I don't work on it anymore. only thing left is pedals & hand brake, steering, and bend out a roll bar. so we are only at the most a month away!  woohoo...
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2007, 03:11:32 PM »

Did you get those pillow blocks at northern tool?
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2007, 03:22:31 PM »

YES... they are listed as "buyers" they seem pretty darn hefty.. if the don't workout, I'll weld a plate to the bottom and find something thats from the "flange" type I can live with. they are pretty hard to see there, you must have a good eye.
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2007, 03:27:05 PM »

Yea they are extremely heavy duty! I'm using them in my toro rebuild.
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2007, 07:27:52 PM »

Those A-Arms look nice!! I think thats exactally what some members building a Supermod could use for their suspension setup. i do agree it sits higher in the front than rear, but with your weight in it it should "settle". Is it me, or are your front tires tilted?... \     /?   maybe because they are hard mounted to the A-Arms....should straightin up when added weight is on it.

Whats the zip ties (wire ties) on the shocks for?

-Phil
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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2007, 10:01:41 PM »

those are the nylon shock straps for new shocks... I need to get some chain as travel limiters, its to keep it from going higher and the shock sitting topped out (bad for seals)
yes they ARE hard mounted, since its a single arm deal, its easier and IMO safer.

they get a little above perfect with weight, and should settle after a few spirited runs to near perfect... another thought was to settle them with a ratchet strap, still considering that a bit far. with round balloon tires it won't matter too much if its off a little anyway.  bigsmile

I have 17 new and better outdoor pics, my brother in law and I got it rigged up with a cross bar on the spindles (for moving it around, not for long term use) so we could get some better pictures outside. I'm not going to waste time or thread space posting them here... but I did put them on Photobucket for those who are enjoying the view!  if you decide to check out the better pics, the tires on the back are not tight, so in some pics they will look crooked (finger tight cuz we take it all off to weld)


http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p224/ryf_photos/atlma/
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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2007, 11:38:57 PM »

wow, looking at the pics, yall have done some great work. it seems the cart is heavy build, as it should be. i think your shocks will settle on their own just fine. i would consider putting some cross braces across the "floor" of te cart, so you dont get chassie flew that might throw your crain off. is it me, or is the front wider than the rear?

-Phil
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2007, 06:58:48 AM »

the rear is almost 3 inches wider, is a visual thing since there isn't much up front. floor braces are in plan, as is a sheetmetal botom and between the motor and I. those are going to be pretty close to last and won't take long for either.

now the motor plate on the back is narrower, but thats not what you mean I think...

I want it strong, sometimes that means heavy... but thats why I started with 17.5 hp.  with 500+cc's I'm trying to gear for torque with a little speed. (20ish-25) so I think its very feasible!

theres more to come my friends
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2007, 07:41:19 AM »

That thing is going to be amazing when done! I was looking at buying an ATGC the other day (was looking at them in Northern), the one that I wanted was over $3,000!!!!!

Kinda hefty if you ask me. Your build looks like it's going to be much cooler than the 3k model too.
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« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2007, 10:09:00 AM »

thanks chris, I built it to take the kind of abuse I enjoy  :biggrin:


I'm reposting the conversation I had else where so it can be in view to everyone, I'm still open for opinions, thnx all

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had a friend of my family over and he keeps going, "is it a kit.... are you sure its not a kit..." heck I don't even have a plan in stone... just alot of thinking, measuring and working... I know how much room things need, and I can visualize the solution, bounce it off my brother in law and father in law who have been helping, and we come to a good final solution. (helps to not be the only one trying to solve every problem)

in my mind it looks GOOD.

hey, on another note, I'm having problems finding BIG pulleys... where do you get them? I mean like 8" or so to get rid of slip. thx
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money89tractors
      Re: my cart build progress
« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2007, 10:57:11 PM » 

8" OD, whats the ID? 1"?

-Phil

p.s. i think the cart looks awesome!
 

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ryf

     Re: my cart build progress
« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2007, 11:10:02 PM » Modify Remove 

I just don't know how big I'll have to go to get very little slip, trying for darn near none if I tug the pedal a little..... I could go as high as 10" drive and 9" trans... as in I have room for that, it is tight, but its doable.

so I figure I can ask you guys what you've been trying, chris is working a double 6" but he hasn't tried it yet. what do they use for "racing" diameters in Imow and such? locally all I can find is 4.5"x1" and 3.5" or 5"x5/8" which I think will slip like the devil

Mcmaster car is very tempting, but before I order anything, I'd like to get an idea where to start, ya know?

p.s.  then you'll love it when you see the side bars and front suspension. 
 
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      Re: my cart build progress
« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2007, 11:18:46 PM » 

i would think 6" and 6" would work fine, but Chris said his setup slips like crazy if it gets wet. My stock Case 110 has a 2.5 or 3" up front and a 6" in back and it slips when wet but grabs fine if you tug on the pedal a little with your toe (even when the whole driveline is underwater   ) if you can get 8" and 8" i say you would have no problems with slipage ever.

-Phil
 
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« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2007, 12:25:46 PM »

Ryf: www.surpluscenter.com

That's where I got like 80% of the parts for my Toro build (that I have yet to utilize!), I got some double-groove 6 1/2" pulleys for ridiculously cheap, they have them in sizes over 15 inches!!!
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« Reply #11 on: April 03, 2007, 12:31:22 PM »

I've looked there... can't seem to find them in 5/8" bore unless you went with 2 piece (hub and outters) you got a part number?
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« Reply #12 on: April 03, 2007, 01:53:59 PM »

IIRC the largest 5/8" bore they had was 6"

I got a 6 1/2" double grove with a 3/4" bore and plan on putting a small piece of 1/16" sheetmetal in the bore to get my 1/8" extra that I'm missing so it'll fit on the 700's 5/8" shaft.
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« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2007, 02:24:51 PM »

now THAT makes more sense.. I felt stupid not being able to find it

MCmaster Carr has 7" 5/8 bore single v for a not too bad a price

right now I am sticking with what I have to see how it works. 3.5 motor and 5.5 transaxle side. it will slip I think, but I want to see how bad before I start going doubles and etc...

I thought about the swappable ones at surplus center, seemed like a darn cool idea. cost a fortune comparatively though.
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« Reply #14 on: April 10, 2007, 03:01:32 PM »

Ok i have a gocart that is crap but could have potential. How are you working in the clutch. My problem is i dont think there will be enough room. It will have to be a really small. Any advice would help.
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