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Author Topic: ATGC update  (Read 22511 times)
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ryf
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« on: January 03, 2008, 06:23:31 AM »

ok... so the atgc is on the chopping block right now, here's where we are at:

we've replaced the first front end
switching to an after market rack and pinion for a sand rail
no more finger throttle, going for a gas pedal
proper steering wheel
switching it over to the chevelle master cylinder

you might ask why, well last year (about 6 months ago, we  started changing the front end, then we had serious issues with the dual a arms and the old steering)  I flipped it in a test ride, bent the safety hoop and realized it needed serious updates to get it to "right" (shoulda left the old front end on, but dual a-arms IS better once its dialed in. since we were updating the front end again, we thought about widening the frame at the front to get more leg room.. might as well change a few other things... and here we are... should be a massive upgrade package.  the master cylinder thing was because the escort one was supposed to be vacuum assisted, so pushing on the brakes isn't stiff, its solid, it works but to be blunt its on or off, if you are pushing hard enough to make it move, its locked the brake up.... the chevelle m/c is  single chamber and for 4 wheel drums (much smaller pistons) so should be perfect for giving me a little pedal travel to play with. plus it has no plastic or breather holes to leak like the escort one.
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Chris
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« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2008, 07:19:07 AM »

pics???


postpics
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« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2008, 08:21:55 AM »

you know me, I'm a weekend pics kinda guy... will get some this saturday/sunday when I work on it again.
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2008, 02:51:18 PM »

ryf, did you check out the buggy I am building? It is around here somewhere. I used the chevelle mastercylinder and two calipers.right now the pedal arm (foot brake lever) is very short and hard to push. I am going to have to make the pedal longer for more leverage. Maybe my experience will help you go with a longer pedal to start with, maybe save you a couple of hours. Can't wait to see pics.
                                                                                                                                 Tom
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2008, 03:35:29 PM »

yes, you definitely need at least 6" between the m/c and the pedal in pedal arm, they aren't designed to be 1:1, the vacuum assisted versions are higher volume pistons, and even worse (my escort one) I appreciate the heads up though.
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« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2008, 02:21:13 PM »



pictures of the new front end in place, not completely welded in or structured, but the look is there... it definitely looks more buggy than go cart now.





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« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2008, 05:00:50 PM »

looks good, some poor atv is running around on 2 legs now huh? lol
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« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2008, 06:09:59 PM »

Wow man, that's really cool - I love the look of it!
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« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2008, 07:05:55 PM »

exactly. an '86 suzuki 250 had to die, but it was basically a bare frame from a cycle graveyard. no big loss to them, let the whole frame go for 100 bucks I'm going to rack and pinion, instead of pivot pegs, should be tight when its done. but it came a complete hydraulic front brake assembly, just needs pads... pretty luck on that side.

me=VERY happy

for those who don't know, I'm running a 17.5 tecumseh vert mower engine to an 820 rear, jack shafted to the rear axle. top speed previously was around 45 mph, but since we are redoing the exhaust this time around as well,  might help since before it was getting the spark arrestor red hot from back pressure.
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« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2008, 08:42:25 PM »

Ryf you lazy non-updater....

Go get that thing done, and take some amazing pictures of it in action so I can post it on our main site.
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« Reply #10 on: January 15, 2008, 05:09:31 PM »

How do you get to the main site? My favorites are set to come straight to the forum.We have a main site?                              Tom bigsmile

Found it DUH! doh
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« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2008, 08:48:17 AM »

I have to work u know... a week at a time! I'll be on it this week like wild fire with new me-made pedals (yet to be crafted, but the pieces have been acquired) and the steering box comes today.. I've been home 15 minutes, I updated you BEFORE I got a shower bigsmile

I also found a damn good way to temporarily attach that motorcycle tank until the new tank is finished (waterproof welds are harder than I thought) I got it down to impossible to see leaks (bubbles with soap) so we are going to seal it in the spring/summer (sealing kit says it should be warm to get best results) more on mounting kit later.

tom- don't change the topic you silly dope.

things still needed before being rideable

* acquire push pull cables for shifter and clutch
* pedals (gas, clutch and brake)
* remount gas tank
* finish steering bits
* finish weld front end
* replace halo roll bar and beef it up (due to rollover damage)

things still needed before being done:

* put on front bars on roll cage
* make felt-resin front clip/splash cover
* paint

I see it being done in spring. it'll be running maybe by middle or end of next month. bigsmile
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money89tractors
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« Reply #12 on: January 16, 2008, 02:27:53 PM »

* acquire push pull cables for shifter and clutch

You can use a shift cable off an automatic car. Some front wheel drive manual cars also have cables that are both push and pull.

-Phil
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Everyone please check the sticky topic posted in Off-Topic about ATLMA rule changes and suggestions. http://www.atlma.us/index.php?topic=163.0

Also, check out T Shirt designs.
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« Reply #13 on: January 16, 2008, 02:30:14 PM »

You can use a shift cable off an automatic car. Some front wheel drive manual cars also have cables that are both push and pull.

-Phil

not long enough for clutch, I will need around 8 ft for that

I have a automatic shifter cable that I might be able to use for the gears, but I haven't been able to check the length I need.
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« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2008, 03:11:26 PM »

 smile
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