jhodgson53
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« on: March 01, 2010, 05:59:24 PM » |
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New Guy on board! I'm just getting into modifying mowers and I'm planning my first ATLM build. Just moved back to the countryside after years of city life. A neighbor recently gave me  a couple of mowers with minor issues: a 22 HP Murray with a damaged exhaust and a 15 HP Huskee with ignition issues. I plan to keep the Murray as a grass-cutter and modify the Huskee as a trail-capable utility vehicle to use here on the farm. I ran across your web site quite by accident and was intrigued. You guys have done some real quality work and great builds. Your general emphasis on safety and quality work are commendable. I'll likely be picking your brains for your experience , and hope I'll be able to contribute something as we move along. Best regards, JB
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Chris
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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2010, 06:39:00 PM » |
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Welcome to the forum JB!
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2010, 07:17:29 PM » |
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Thanks, Chris!
A quick question. Do you know of anyone who has tried a golf-cart-type flat spring front suspension on a ATLM? This would have the potential for more stability than the standard pivoting but undampened front axle, plus a chassis that would keep all four wheels on the ground.
Thx! JB
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Chris
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« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2010, 07:29:04 PM » |
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You're talking a transverse monoleaf for the front?
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2010, 08:45:41 PM » |
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No, not transverse, but two (rather) flat springs, longitudinally mounted (in the case of a mower) on each side of the chassis. Very simply, these are held in tension against the top of the axle on each side (with a sort of sliding clamp). As the axle pivots, it does so against the tension of these leaf springs. Not much range of motion here, just enough to maintain more wheel contact than a rigid axle on uneven ground. This might not work at all, or at least might not be worth the effort and expense, just a thought I had while looking at a golf cart suspension.
Thx! JB
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Chris
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« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2010, 09:04:31 PM » |
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OK, I know the suspension design you're talking about now. Nobody has actually tried that, but it sounds like a good idea, that would actually be fairly simple to put together using the solid front axle. I had plans for a fully independent front suspension utilizing coilovers like an ATV, but I haven't touched a mower in a couple years now.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2010, 07:54:37 AM » |
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Yes, I don't think it would be too difficult, but might require stiffening the front of the chassis a bit. I'm thinking of trying it. I have access to a golf cart front axle which I will closely evaluate for strength, but it would also give me four-bolt hubs on the front spindles. Again I'm still in the planning stages, waiting for better weather so I can enclose my now open-sided shed and have an all-weather place to work.
I did get the 22 HP Murray running, though. Just fixed the exhaust pipe on it, cleaned the fuel system,, replaced the gas and oil, added Sta-Bil, charged the battery, and Vroom! The 46-inch cut will make hort work of my minimal "lawn" since most of the property is either woods or hay fields. This thing actually sounds more like a tractor than a lawn mower. Even the belts are nearly new on this thing. I'm lucky to have one of those "if it quits working I just buy a new one" guys for a neighbor. I can see this becoming "a beautiful friendship," to quote Bogart!
Later, JB
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2010, 08:21:14 AM » |
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Another question for anyone: Have any of you tried a split rear brake system, like farm tractors have, so you could brake each rear wheel independently? I'm looking for an alternative to the locked rear that would make turning easier, but give me the ability to brake a slipping wheel. I do this with farm tractors all the time on soft ground. There are two brake pedals, side by side, that can be locked together when you aren't using the split braking feature. (You probably know what I'm talking about, I don't mean to insult anyone's intelligence by over-explaining.)
I think I have room to mount a four-bolt hub and car brake rotor (old single-thickness type) on each side of the rear axle, with calipers mounted on or close to the chassis, and still clear the rear wheels. It would require two master cylinders and plumbing but it doesn't seem all that complicated once I get the pedals worked out.
As you can tell I'm still in the "what-if" stage, but can't wait to get busy turning wrenches!
Later, JB
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Chris
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2010, 11:01:22 AM » |
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I don't think anyone has ever tried it before. It's worth a shot though, what's the worst that could happen? 
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2010, 04:32:09 PM » |
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:lol:LOL. Yeah, I've said that before, and often the answer was , "Something worse than you thought possible!"
Later, JB
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #10 on: March 09, 2010, 01:22:03 PM » |
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Well, Chris, it looks like it's just you and me on here lately! You mentioned the transverse monoleaf cart suspension in an earlier reply to my question, and while that wasn't what I was thinking about at the time, I just recently got a chance to look one of these over. I think it was on a Club Car cart. Strengthwise, it looks rugged enough, and could be reinforced. Also, it could be reconfigured with simple lower control arms and coilovers. IIRC, some of the old Fiat cars used a transverse leaf spring as a lower control arm/spring combo. Any thoughts about (or experience with) this setup?
Also, was the original concept of off-road mower competition to run on just woods-type trails, or to have closed course specifications like motocross or rallycross, etc?
Later, JB
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Chris
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2010, 09:54:17 AM » |
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The only real experience I have with transverse monoleaves are on vehicles. W-Body cars use transverse monoleaves in the rear suspension that stole their design from the Corvette. The transverse monoleaf along with the struts seems to prevent body roll better than a simple coil/leaf and shock setup. Flexability is so-so, it depends on the kind of leaf and how it's mounted really.
The original concept was organized builds & trial rides, and it if ever got off the ground, races. This place use to be real busy until we cleaned out a bunch of bad members.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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NikoBellic
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« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2010, 08:38:31 PM » |
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Hey how is everyone? I like the split brake idea but it would prob be easier to use a mechanical brake vs a hydraulic. I have the front clip off a kids 4-wheeler and it has drum brakes with cables. I'm sure a cable operated brake will have enough stopping power for a ATLM.
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jhodgson53
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« Reply #13 on: April 15, 2010, 08:17:27 AM » |
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I'm not opposed to using cable or rod-actuated brakes, but, I'd really rather stick with discs due to their simplicity and self-cleaning nature. I'll have to give this one some more thought. Since nice weather has arrived, I've been busy catching up the "honey-do" list and my only mower time has been on the grass-cutter! As soon as I get to work on the mow-chine, I'll start posting in the build category. Still eyeing that golf cart front axle, though.
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Chris
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« Reply #14 on: April 15, 2010, 08:30:00 AM » |
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Have you seen those 4WD kits for the electric golf carts? Those are pretty cool. I keep eyeballing my project 4-wheeler's suspension and front axle for one of my mowers...
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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