My ATGC, mower beginnings

[MTDrider1160]

How much money would you say youve spent so far on it??

[ryf]

yes thats the gm alternator.

fenders/skirting are in its future, but I do not count that towards "finishing", they will protect the alt and motor from slingage.

costs..... could be done cheaper, but not with new parts

trans $90
motor $460
wheels and tires $90
axle, hubs and hangers, $75
misc pulleys and belts, $100
gears and chains $50-60
Steel so far, $200 ish maybe
brakes all free except lines, fittings and fluid $35
I'll keep think, there is more.

[Chris]

A supertrapp!!!!!! Awesome!!!! How does that thing sound??

You should really put some fenders on the rear, especially by that alt. That thing is friggen awesome!!

[ryf]

if only one word, LOUD. but good, not harley good, but gets the heads turned before the gokart gets into view. we had it out on the "bottoms" which is unflooded river bed, its exposed about 20-25 days out of 30, and one of the other 4 wheelers who are locals said,"we heard it coming and stopped to see what it was, and it was worth waiting for" I was out running with my brother in law and his foreman 400 4x4, we took turns running the piss out of it to break something, on non-paved surfaces, I was easily keeping up with several four-wheelers (a rincon 650 4x4 as well), except for those truely nuts and fearless. I think a fair portion of me keeping up was my longer wheelbase and extra width, and lower CG made my ride much more stable, so I wasn't letting off on the bad parts like they were.

oh yeah, $50 for the supertrap, had the pipe and elbows $1.00 for the big ass washer I made the flange from.

if you were building one, I'd find a 820 transaxle or something equally heavy duty, as my major confidence issue is the transaxle, a 204-503, which is ok, but I still feel hesitant to go thumbs up for any old person to run it because its sintered (cast) instead of cut steel (CNC) gears. if I track one down, I will be upgrading fo' sure

[ryf]

Two pics of the tacked in front hoop which will support my homemade fiberglass hood 



my motor protection hoop/bumper with tail light and triple brake lights, you'll know I hit the brakes! it is final welded since it works soooo nice 




I've been playing with it, I actually did this work last week, after I cut open my leg, but I wasn't able to get these updates up cuz I'm a slacker!

[money89tractors]

Looks like it does pretty good in the mud!!

In pic 2, might wanna check out the front rim, little bent there.

Overall, the carts turned out very nice.

-Phil

[Chris]

That thing is so damn cool!

[tractorman]

Hey Ryf in the last picture si that the automotive brake setup? What are you using 4x4 pattern hub on a 4 bolt hub? Or do you have to make one a hub?

[MTDrider1160]

In pic 2, might wanna check out the front rim, little bent there.

A LITTLE!!

[ryf]

you guys had me going on the bent rim thing... if you look REAL close, its the hard brake line thats just really close in curvature (its about 8" away)


tractorman...

yes it is an automotive brake, its off a ford ASPIRE (retarded escort parts) it is 4x100, I used the 4x4 sprocket mount (passthrough hole) from Northerntool, it is centered, but the holes are not a perfect match, since 4x4 = 4x102ish. I just drilled the holes larger in the sprocket mount, used an appropriate bolt and washer, and voila. the ford aspire had the smallest rotor/caliper combo I could find.. some years of Metro/saturn S are small and 4x100 as well, as well as stock REAR disc's off some honda civic, almost all FWD 4 bolt hondas are 4x100, but the front discs are massive, but you can probably find a ricer willing to part with their stock rear brake parts if you wait long enough, I happened to get mine free, not a ricer, but a friends parts car.


the caliper is off the same car, and its a floating bolt on like most cars. I would recommend welding in a crossbar with gussets (or a gusset plate) to mount the caliper to to keep twist down, especially with a mowers sheet metal sides, you want to distribute the load accordingly or you'll just do damage/rip metal. the idea is to create more weld surface over a larger area using gussets, a gusset plate is basically something you weld the bar to (like 3/16"-1/4" plate) that you can then weld or bolt to the sheet metal to
distribute the brake force.

how it does in the mud, FANTASIC. it also climbs hills like a midget in a tiger pen


(that was for you chris)

[Chris]

......it also climbs hills like a midget in a tiger pen


(that was for you chris)

BWAHAHHAHA!!!!! OH man you jsut made me burst out laughing, I need to save that one and use it sometime!!!

[tractorman]

Ryf, do you know if the acme mower sports 3/4 4 bolt hubs will work? 
http://www.acmemowersports.com/4_on_4_aluminum_hubs.html

I know ti says for 1 inch and 1 1/4 inch axles they are also made for 3/4 transaxles.

[ryf]

I want to say yes, they loook like they have enough meat to drill a little, so I'd say go for it, remember when you drill it out, you only want to go 1cm bigger on each hole,(about 1/16") as the other hole will give you the other cm you need to get it to line up..


should be perfect, I prefer steel, only cuz I can weld on it but ally is good considering its for racing!