Chris
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« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2009, 01:54:03 PM » |
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2009, 02:54:02 PM » |
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hey chris, or anyone for that matter, do you know how this part goes back in my transaxle? its a 920-010 Ok so does it go this way?  Or this way?  I also tried welding the front axle today, for testing purposed (dont worry wont do speed with stock front end). anyways, the welds came out horrible, and mine normally look decent, there really slag covered and not smooth, plus the arc looked really bad, it was a strange yellow.  This bead really doesnt look strong, i guess my 110 mig just isnt powerful enough |
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AcreFarm
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« Reply #17 on: June 07, 2009, 09:10:46 AM » |
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Is that the cast iron axle? If so you won't be welding that with your MIG.
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-Dan
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #18 on: June 07, 2009, 11:40:14 AM » |
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Its not cast iron, its cast steel (i think) either way i welded it and im gonna see if it holds up to some testing (jumping on it).
Engine runs though! started up first crank with fresh gas and runs awsome!
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Chris
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« Reply #19 on: June 08, 2009, 06:40:52 AM » |
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Yeah, welding cast isn't something your 110 MIG is going to like to do, hence the different colors and crappy welds. When I disassembled my 920 it looked like your 2nd pic.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #20 on: June 11, 2009, 11:00:20 AM » |
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Got some of the steering parts, i got the 3/4 u joint from mcmastercarr, it was supposed to be $14+shipping, but i had them bill me by mail and they never send me the bill, so free u joint i guess. The flange bearing was $10 off ebay with free shipping. I still need a pillow block or something for the top of the shaft.   |
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Chris
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« Reply #21 on: June 11, 2009, 12:00:58 PM » |
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Free is always good!
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #22 on: June 11, 2009, 12:54:51 PM » |
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free is definitely good, now if i can just find a free sled engine for my go kart  . Just a quick question, for front end spindle brackets how thick should they be? i get free scrap flat stock from a local metal supplier, most of it is good but only 1/4". |
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Chris
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« Reply #23 on: June 11, 2009, 01:20:13 PM » |
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1/4" should be plenty, but it all depends on your design
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #24 on: June 11, 2009, 01:28:20 PM » |
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using some square tube salvaged from a pair late 80's polaris trailing arms, going for approx 5* of KPI and 5* of caster. Not exactly sure of spindle size, since i have no idea of the tire's bore im using.
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #25 on: June 12, 2009, 04:50:32 PM » |
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Got the engine running right today, still need to tune the idle a bit, but for the most part it runs good. I still need to figure out if it has a bad magneto or my battery is just bad. This carb is really poorly designed, the idle adjustment screw is behind the carb facing the engine block, and it almost impossible to get to.
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #26 on: June 14, 2009, 03:16:23 PM » |
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Well she runs perfect now, and believe it or not the battery in there thats no more than 1 or 2 years old was bad, and the battery that was in my murray (8+ years old) works fine. So now it starts by itself and runs great. The only other problem is that it keeps blowing a fuse, im not sure what the fuseis for though, i mean it starts and runs fine without that one fuse. I'm guessing its for the PTO or headlights and the wires are just shorted somewhere.
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Chris
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« Reply #27 on: June 15, 2009, 07:04:27 AM » |
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The engine should run fine with no battery hooked up to it. From that and what you said about it blowing a fuse it sounds like you have an electrical problem somewhere. Not sure how yours is wired up, but on of my mowers had the ignition power (from the battery to the ignition) fused, and another had a fuse for the stator (between the motor and ignition). I believe the most common is from the battery to the ignition. I'dd pull out all the wiring and start from scratch, that's usually your best bet.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #28 on: June 16, 2009, 10:40:40 AM » |
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I most likely what i'll do, this things got a mess of wires, it has 5 idiot lights, wires for electric pto, wires for headlights, seat safety switch, and transmission neutral switch, which is all almost useless to me besides headlights.
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Kaptain krunch
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« Reply #29 on: June 17, 2009, 04:09:33 PM » |
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Spindle brackets done, need the kingpins DOM tubing and a 5/8 drill bit to finish them. I also cleaned up the rims and checked the bushings, there pretty bad but im going to leave them for now.   |
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