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September 04, 2010, 09:27:22 PM *
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Author Topic: ATLMA Build Rules (04/13/2010 Update)  (Read 2009 times)
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Chris
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« on: March 28, 2007, 08:58:29 AM »

These are NOT the FORUM RULES.

You MUST read the forum rules before registering for an account, if you do not COMPLETELY read the forum rules before registering, we will know - and your registration WILL be denied.



The rules have NOT changed, but please read the below post (Published on April 13th 2010).




Attached in .pdf format are the build rules for the All-Terrain Lawn Mower Association.
If you do not have Adobe Reader, you can download it here: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

* ATLMA Build Rules 04-09-08.pdf (12.15 KB - downloaded 230 times.)
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2010, 02:35:57 PM »

Since there seems to be some confusion, These rules were implemented to differentiate between classes when sanctioned events are held. The all-class mandatory rules are mandatory due to safety reasons and to thwart off back-yard-bashers (BYB).

The PDF file of the forum rules will be modified in the near future so we can clear up any concerns




· Approved PPE (helmets, pants, boots, gloves, etc.)
Self-explanatory. We don't want to see you getting injured
· Tech approved muffler (no louder than [to be determined] decibels)
· USDA Forest Service approved spark arrestor
We don't want you to annoy your neighbors or start a fire with your mowchine
· Tether safety shutoff device
We don't want to see you fall off your mower, and then have it drive away and injure someone/something
· Steering must be upgraded (tech approved no-slop – see class rules)
sloppy steering + off-roading = crash
· Automatic throttle return
You don't want your engine racing at 5,000RPM when you're drying to slow down
· Upgraded on-axle brakes that will hold the mower on an [to be determined] in/decline
You need to stop, and you need to stop safely. Transaxle/transmission brakes aren't designed for what we do
· Wiring must be safe and pass tech inspection
           o All positive leads/connections must be covered
We don't want to see hack job wiring that's going to short out and leave your mower stranded, or worse; catch fire.
· Front-facing headlight and rear facing tail & brake light**
After the sun goes down, you need to see and be seen
· Every 2” lift axle must be widened 1”
Stability is a key component to a capable off-road mowchine, You don't want to roll over ever, especially on an incline.
· Front & rear bumpers with tow hooks (brush guards, skid plates & slider bars may also be used and are recommended)
You'll get stuck, and you'll need these. Trust us, it'll happen.
· Fully working clutch
You need to stop believe it or not.
· All edges must be rounded
I personally don't want to see cuts or gouges or people bleeding from a laceration due to a sharp or jagged piece of metal.
· Motor originally produced to power a ride-on mower.
This is off-road mowers, not take an ATV and put mower sheet metal on it.com (There are exceptions to this rule)
· Front axle pivot must be removed, welded, or bolted solid
Again with the stability...
· Aftermarket or custom spindles and heim ends must be used. No factory setups!
           o Limited class exempt
Ever have a steering component fail at an inopportune time? You will if you don't upgrade them.
· All wheels must be held on by a bolt, lock collar, or set screw
Ever loose a wheel? Well we don't want you to.
· Mower must have a recognizable and noticeable "tag" or sticker stating its class
           o L or Limited
           o M or Modified
           o S or SuperMod
           o X or Outlaw
This applies if you plan on running in a sanctioned event
· No tires larger than 22” with 10” rim MAX (with the exception of 26" x 12" x 12” in limited)
This is not monstermowers. 44" Super Swampers on your mower are ridiculous.
· No open differentials on 2WD machines
You'll get stuck, a lot.
· Open differential REQUIRED on the FRONT of all 4WD machines (limited slip/locker can also be used). Rear must be fully locked
If your front axle is constantly locked, you won't be able to steer - and when you try you'll brake driveline components.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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