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« on: August 22, 2007, 04:12:02 AM » |
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G'day all! Now before we all get to know each other, no jokes about the name please - it's my nickname, comes from my last name being Newbery and i use it on most of the other forums I'm on - so yea, just because I am a Newbie lol Anyway, like the title says - WOW - you guys really have a good thing going here. I have had a look around while waiting to be registered and I was really amazed. I am a member of 4WD and car forums but have never thought of persuing my other interest - setting up The Rancher for offroading (my mates think I'm nuts lol) Here's the bombshell... I'm in Australia (I must be your first or close to International Member). The thing is that there are no forums like this in Aus so I hope I will be welcomed here! I'm in Brisbane which is the capital of Queensland (my state for those who are not up to speed with their geography lol) so look me up if you are in town! We do have a mower racing club near me http://www.scmrc.net/ check it out if you want to see some Aussie mowers! but yea not for offroading... I am currently building up my 1970's Rover Rancher - pretty sure they are unique to aus but correct me if I'm wrong. I have already done some mods which will be detailed once I can post a build-up thread but they include so far 16HP B&S Twin engine, swap rear axel to get bigger wheels, paint and the racing seat lol. I have attached some pics for you all to drool over    Still lots to do on her though... oh and yea, that's a genuine 289 Mustang badge on the front - personal touch, but this does not reflect my vehicle manufacturer of choice  I am building her just for trail riding while out 4WDing with mates on privet property, no official offroad mower racing down here and by joining this forum I hope to get heaps of pointers on building her up as well as sharing my knowledge. Looking forward to getting to know everyone better!! Newbs P.S. because of time differences, when you guys read this I will be sleeping!!! lol Ain't that cool?
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ryf
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mow my lawn???
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« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2007, 05:30:24 AM » |
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welcome, just chiming in before I do my week out, never heard of a rover(except the SUV), looks like a mower to me though. 
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Chris
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« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2007, 08:12:20 AM » |
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Nice addition of the racing seat and extra capacity gas tank, also love the "locked" front end! 
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2007, 02:10:30 PM » |
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Welcome.
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money89tractors
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« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2007, 03:14:04 PM » |
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Welcome Newbery, nice looking mower you have there. That "locked" front end caught my eye too.  -Phil
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Newbs
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The Rancher
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« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2007, 08:44:07 PM » |
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Cheers guys, thanks for the welcome. About the padlock... It's my tow point lol - I haven't got a key as it came with the mower when I bought it and haven't had a chance to pick it yet lol. Just adds a bit more character I reckon  The petrol tank is a recent addition (I was sick of using a milk bottle lol) and is going well so far - its about 7-8 litres, so just under 2 gallons?? It came off the donor mower I used for the engine and real axel conversion. The engine and tank will be painted to match the mower soon as well as a new lick of paint for the whole thing!! (pressure pack lol) Any suggestions for engine colour? I want a bit of contrast. Will post up more pictures when i get home tonight! (have some parts I need identifying) Newbs,
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money89tractors
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« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2007, 05:04:46 AM » |
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Newbs, please remember to read through our rules of you havent yet, just to get familiar with them.
As for the engine, dont paint the block. When you paint the block the engine runs hotter. As for the shroud, go for it. To make the engine stand out, paint it red at first, then tape off an area so you can stencil the engine makers name on it. after that, paint everything black, or a different color and remove the tape.
-Phil
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« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2007, 08:36:02 AM » |
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Cheers Phil, Yea I'm not going to paint the block - air cooled engine, but definitely the tins. I got them second hand (had to mod them a bit to fit) as when i got the engine it had none! I like the idea of the stenciling, will prob do something like that and maybe a stripe of some sort on the main body?? Also I have this gearbox that I pulled off the mower initially - is it worth anything? can someone fill me in on some of the detail of what it is? It has the word Tecumseh on the top, an 8 tooth output sprocket and is a R-N-1-2-3-4-5 in-line pattern.   Much appreciated, Newbs
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STEELMAN
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it was free so i made it fit
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« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2007, 08:44:03 AM » |
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pretty sure thats a 700 check for a tag on the side. if so you should be able to sell it on heymow
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Chris
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« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2007, 10:52:43 AM » |
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A 700!!!!
I'd be all over that if you didn't live in Australia!
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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money89tractors
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« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2007, 02:55:26 PM » |
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Theyre right, sure is a 700.
Peerless(tecumseh) transmissions and transaxles are the best. Was there any problems with that gearbox when it was in the mower? And the gearbox you have in your mower now, does it have the inline shift as well?
That transmission is almost like gold to the racing guys (and us as well). If you dont plan on keeping it, it would most likely be profitable to put it up on ebay or even on mowbetter (mower racing foum)
-Phil
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« Reply #11 on: August 24, 2007, 02:01:30 AM » |
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So I am sitting on a small nest egg here. I will probably keep it for a future project as it is in good nick (despite the visual condition). The current drive system I have is a trans-axel I think. It has the R-N-F in the axel assembly with a big pully on the top which connects loosly to the engine; to engauge drive I push a pedal which moves an Idler Pully and tensions the belt between the engine and tranny. Works alright but it's a bit too slow, I need to adjust the pully sizes (keeping in mind that if I have two large pullies I am going to find it hard to get the belt-slip required to stop the mower when the Idler is disengauged) so I am thinking of making the pully on the trans smaller (the engine pully is already quite small to help with belt-slip when stopped). Is this the right idea?
Newbs
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2007, 03:28:24 AM » |
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You are right on the pulley changes:big in front, small in rear for more speed.But this is on a standard transmission. From the description of your transaxle(R-N-F) it sounds like it is a hydrostatic drive(automatic) which cannot be sped up.Speeding up a hydro drive will only burn it up.I would definately utilize the 700 and a live axle. You would then have unlimited options on gearing and braking. Check out www.heymow.com I lurk there every once in a while for ideas. They are very knowledgable and helpful, but they are hardcore racers and don't fool around with what they call "backyard bashers".Once again....Welcome. Hope to see you build something awesome.  Tom
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Chris
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« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2007, 06:04:18 AM » |
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Tom is onto something, but since your tractor is an older model I'm 100% certain that you have a vari-drive system, which is pretty much junk in anything but the stock application. Ditch that setup and put that 700 to use!!!
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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« Reply #14 on: August 25, 2007, 08:18:03 PM » |
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The transaxel is not a hyrdo system - all gears (needs a rebuild - gets a bit hard to shift between F and R) the mower i took the system out of worked on the same principle as the one i am using now. When the belt is loose the engine spinns freely and the mower does not move - when the belt is tensioned (ie when i push on the pedal which pushes a Idler Pully onto the belt) both pullies turn and the mower moves if you have it in gear. If you only push gently on the pedal the belt will slip slightly but grip slightly thereby varying your speed - thats the principle anyway. (trans/axel has inbuilt breaks aswell)
I am having a few problems that need to be ironed out like the gear shifting (aquard position) so I may go to a solid axel like you suggested but i don't know how to or have the tools to make the required hubs for the axel - is there an easy (read cheap) way to get around this. I would be prepared to buy the axel, bearings and sprocket but i want to take atvantage of the wheels i already have. (wish i had a laythe, would make things alot easier)
This appeals to me because i still have the original axel i pulled out of the mower which is basically a solid axel but with a small differential which has the sprocket (will post pic later) and I was thinking that this axel would be perfect for a front axel for 4WD conversion because of the differential. All you would have to do is cut the axel, weld in some steering columb universial joints, build some spindles and run a chain from the rear axel (note. the front would be a fixed or 'pinned' axel aswell) Anyway its just an idea but it may happen
Where can i find some info the correct axel sprocket size for offroading (don't want it to go too fast) to use with the 8 tooth 700 g/box?
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money89tractors
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« Reply #15 on: August 25, 2007, 09:22:09 PM » |
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Where can i find some info the correct axel sprocket size for offroading (don't want it to go too fast) to use with the 8 tooth 700 g/box?
Its pretty uncharted ground. The best i can tell you is go with the stock rear sprocket you had and then simply re-gear the pulleys. Best way to find out is to find what the gear ratio of your 700 is in high gear. After that, work on how fast you want to go, then we can figure out what sprockets to use. -Phil
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« Reply #16 on: August 25, 2007, 10:03:58 PM » |
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The original setup went from g/box to jackshaft (jackshaft had the break on it) and then from jackshaft to axel with the ratio compounding each time (small to big - g'box the j/shaft then small to big - j/shaft to axel) so I think I would have to get a bigger sprocket. Good idea about the top gear ratio thing - i think it's 1:1 but can't be sure.
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Chris
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« Reply #17 on: August 26, 2007, 10:39:30 AM » |
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Newbs, check out my toro project thread so you can see how I did (and then re-did) my rear axle setup.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #18 on: August 26, 2007, 06:36:53 PM » |
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Hey Chris, Could newbs not weld up his differential on his stock axle and use it to save a little dough to start out with? He said it was like a solid axle with a diff and sprocket in the middle. Should have gears in that diff.
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money89tractors
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« Reply #19 on: August 26, 2007, 07:33:56 PM » |
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Ive seen the diff and axle hes using, there are gears inside that diff.
-Phil
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Chris
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« Reply #20 on: August 27, 2007, 06:58:09 AM » |
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When I welded mine solid (VERY similar dif) I welded the gears inside and it worked great. Don't weld it completely solid, just across a few teeth (on opposite sides) to make give the tires a little play in them for the corners.
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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Newbs
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« Reply #21 on: August 28, 2007, 01:49:37 AM » |
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I want to keep that axle in case I want to do the 4WD thing because that axle would be perfect for the job. Project has stalled for a lack of funds at the moment though
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #22 on: August 28, 2007, 11:55:48 AM » |
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Welcome to my world. Tom
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MTDrider1160
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« Reply #23 on: August 28, 2007, 01:17:15 PM » |
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Welcome to my world. Tom
More like welcome to all of our worlds!!
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"I'm a minority, therefore I only speak ENGLISH"
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #24 on: August 28, 2007, 05:52:06 PM » |
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10-4!
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