Four Wheel Drive.

[Chris]

Ok speedy this quote "raises"(LOL) the question why the crazy lift on your build.Your not gaining anything but instability. A gravel is gonna turn you over and you still have no more clearance than a stock mower? Anytime I have ever hung up on anything it was always the diff. I still like the fact that you are trying something different.I wanna see video of this thing when you try it out. How are you gonna do your steering?
                                                                                                                      Tom

I have to agree, that thing is going to be more unstable than a crazy person deprived of their meds for a week. Your subframes and your frame are going to need serious bracing to get it to not tear itself apart...

Don't forget either:

Every 2” lift axle must be widened 1”

I see that thing lifted with stock width axles?

[speeddemon0308]

bracing is on the way..

and the frotn as acaully at about 43" and the rear axel is just in there for mock up.. they will both be at 43" when im done...

[toxic_j_2007]

I know this is an old thread, but what about an idea using the 700 with dual outputs, mount it sideways, then use farm pto shafts for driveshaft, to a ragb, then to a live axle. kinda complicated, I know, but it'll eliminate rocks and such from the chain, less chain to run.


also on where to find U-joint yokes, ...a farm store (such as ruralking.com) I work at one and we have about 20 different types of spider clips and u-joint setups for shafts from 1/2 to 2". and they only run about $25-$30 per peice:( 

[MOWchanic]

There used to be a thread on here that was a 4 wheel drive mower using a p700... BUT it got deleted for unsafe material. If Chris will allow it he may post pictures of it.

[Chris]

Yeah, he was running dual chains though, not a drive shaft setup like toxic is talking about.

[mtd]

Yeah i think he should of went with driveshafts.

[money89tractors]

If you look back into the thread a bit, theres a MS paint drawing i did using a driveshaft and a chain drive on the rear axle (if youve even seen a 4x4 polaris setup youll understand better). The driveshaft setup i have done in that drawing could be done so that the rear could also be shaft drive.

I would take 3 T drives ( one off the tranny as a transfer case, and on on each axle) and a P700 or P500.

-Phil

[toxic_j_2007]

the setup I'm talking about is using the dual outputs (mentioned earlier) and putting the driveshafts to them, then using a ragb/chain to get your 9:1 gearing at the axle. that would eliminate the need for t-drives, would make it a little more cost effective, and would allow for different sized front/rear tires.

[muddydeer]

All I can say is........
WHEEL HORSES!
Thats the first thing that comes to mind. They mad 4 wheel drive axles and setups back in the 60's when farmers wanted more pulling force. I am pretty sure you can still find these setups some where.

I have seen one of these before. About the size of my craftsman. They also had 4-wheel steering If I remembered correctly. That would be intresting

[caveman]

      Hey Guys - - -toxic - - - - you sorta lost me on that  " ragb/chain "   Would you be kind enough to give me an  idea of how it looks.  I'm a little slow on some of these terms. 

      After All - - - - it took me awhile to figure out where to put the hole for the wheel.

      Norman

[money89tractors]

lol caveman, you're a riot.

a RAGB (righ angle gear box) is just a gear box the changes input at a 90* angle. Peerless makes some and they look like this : http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p1324C.jpg

A chain gearbox, such as a peerless 500 looks like this :




hopefully this explains things better for you.

-Phil

[caveman]

     Hey  Phil,  Always wishing you and the other Guys the best,

      I'm a little slow on some of these terms if they're not spelled out.   I  appreciate the time  and thought taken to explain those  "letters" to me.    [ Not my everyday lingo ]            I've looked at some of them and often had thoughts of " are they strong enough" ?       Or where would you put one without it being too close to the ground.   

      Anyway - - - - - -  let me pose another question.     How about a long belt from the engine pulley   all the way back to an axle pulley with the belt making the required 90 degree turn ?     Has it been tried ? I know it would take  extra guides but that shouldn't  be a problem.     Even different size pulleys could be used to  "change "gears. !!!      Just a thought.     Your input  ?

      Have a good one   - - - - - -Norman 
   

[money89tractors]

A long belt setup could be used. I have seen long belts being "twisted" from vertical to horizontal before.

I believe the biggest issue with using a belt to drive all the wheels, however, is that they will slip when introduced to even a little bit of water.

-Phil

[caveman]

     Hey Phil,   That's interesting - - - - so water is perhaps one of the problems to "work around" with a long belt.    can you think of other problems a long belt would pose ?     There should be a solution to the water problem unless  it's  in that environment  such as going through mud or standing water.        Has anyone thought of  "inventing"  a belt wiper  ?           Perhaps a makeshift   "squeegee "        Sorta like  the belt going through a housing with wiper blades  just before engaging the pulley  ! ! ! !            [  A winter project ]         

      See what happens to  cavemen  in the winter          too much cave time.     

      Always so nice to stay in touch ,    have a good one,       Norman

[ryf]

I think he'll be fine if he gets the tension good AND uses larger diameter pulleys (6" would be nice) the bigger the diameter, the more surface area, more surface area, better belt life and less slippage.. I would look for pulleys/sheeves that are 1 belt size larger than your using (get 5/8" belt pulley use 1/2" belt) so you get a bigger lip to keep it from popping out.. just a thought.