tractorman
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« on: August 02, 2007, 02:38:30 PM » |
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Well I was looking through the rules and I saw that I needed a brake light that is functional. I have a brake light but I dont know how to make it fully funtional. Meaning how do I make it light up when I hit the brakes?
Thanks
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My mowmachine: 1980 Sears Craftsmen
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MTDrider1160
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« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2007, 02:44:57 PM » |
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You need a spring loaded switch. You might be able to go to a junkyard and salvage a switch off of a newer car.
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"I'm a minority, therefore I only speak ENGLISH"
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MTDrider1160
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« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2007, 04:29:06 PM » |
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No it dosnt have to be a brand new car, just make sure the switch is pedal activated(directly on the pedal)
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"I'm a minority, therefore I only speak ENGLISH"
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tractorman
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« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2007, 05:21:25 PM » |
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Thanks
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My mowmachine: 1980 Sears Craftsmen
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money89tractors
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« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2007, 10:54:25 PM » |
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I have acces to a 1989 nissan hardbody pickup will that work That should work. -Phil
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Chris
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« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2007, 06:14:01 AM » |
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That switch you posted would work, but I don't think it would last too long. The switch from the Nissan would probably work too, but you really should find a waterproof one. Best bet would be to get one off an ATV or motorcycle since they're waterproof
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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ryf
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« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2007, 09:03:55 PM » |
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get a hood switch/door switch for interior lights, there are LOTS out there for cheap most have a nice long plunge, weld a plate on the pedal assembly (I recommend close to the pivot so it doesn't over push the switch) that hits the "switch button" when you are under braking power (I'd get it close to where brakes are "on" so if you ride the pedal you aren't making people think u are stopping needlessly)
I would wire it to the ground side, so you can run the power wire to the light, and cut the ground, that keeps it to one long wire run in most cases. it also keeps you from needing a relay in some instances.
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tractorman
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« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2007, 05:39:28 AM » |
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Ryf, I thought about what you said and I cam up with somehting like this.  The one pushes on and when you let of the other pulls the switch back with the pedal. I was thinking of making t flat peices of metal drilling 2 holes in the metal and bending the first for the push lever and the second for the pull lever. Pretty much this is what the braket would look like  Those are two bolts if you cant read the writing on the picture.
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ryf
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« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2007, 11:27:55 AM » |
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you can go to a stereo/alarm shop and get a hood pin switch, looks like this http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTO-ALARM-PIN-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ290143341184QQihZ019QQcategoryZ14932QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemhook it backwards to a DPST relay and it will be DONE. if you hunt for automotive grade door/hood switches (IE pulled from car or junkyard, think cars with underhood lighting, like chevy trucks from the 90's) you may not need the relay since some of those are already made to complete the circuit when pushed instead of an alarms switch which is meant to disable the automatic starter when the hoods open -------------------- about your pictures, I wouldn't, heres why.....using a thrown switch as pictured might work, but you'll probably break the switch when your using your foot to throw it in an emergency. that is not a fault of your design, just that I've broken hundreds of accessory switches in the last 10 years, just snagging a shirt on it can be its death, they have plastic housing, even with a metal handle. just my opinion.
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tractorman
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« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2007, 12:50:30 PM » |
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Very understandable, I am going to go right now and pick up a few things for the build, sprocket hub,brake light,sprocket, some metal ECT..... Also picking up a spring switch like on a car at the same place.
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creepycrawler
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« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2007, 06:52:01 PM » |
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I just bought a brake switch for my dirt bike, it would be perfect for a atlm, its waterproof and durable and easy to mount. get them from any dirt bike or quad store, there universal. cost me 10 dollars.
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ryf
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« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2007, 05:42:19 PM » |
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 my brake lights my brother in law installed today while I was hanging on the couch due to "stupid-move-itus" tomorow I'll be back in the game though.
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Chris
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« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2007, 07:22:50 AM » |
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Are those the $5 wal-mart ones?
I was looking at those exact ones for the Wizard
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine.
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ryf
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« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2007, 06:36:54 PM » |
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its currently 2 $3 brake lights and 1 $5 brake and marker light
I would completely recommend the $5 brake/tail/signal (a 2 wire 2 element lamp) if you want running and brake lights. in one package. despite my injury I did some "supervising" in the garage and we got the bumper on and light protectors in place. I'll post pics in another thread tommorow. I also supervised myself mowing the lawn, so I accomplished alot for sitting around with my leg up.
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