tractorman
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« Reply #30 on: August 01, 2007, 11:24:26 AM » |
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Alright thanks
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My mowmachine: 1980 Sears Craftsmen
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tractorman
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« Reply #31 on: August 11, 2007, 04:11:02 PM » |
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I have another question. Since I am using a foote now do I weld the spider gear son the shaft to the shaft and that pretty much just locked it up or do I need to weld the spider gears on the shaft and weld them to the gears in the bull gear? O and also cant you use a bernzomatic torch and some nickel alloy brazing rod to take place of welding? Wouldnt this cut out worrying about warping the shafts?
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My mowmachine: 1980 Sears Craftsmen
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tntchitwood
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« Reply #32 on: August 12, 2007, 07:02:02 AM » |
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You don't actually weld the gear to the axle, If you snap an axle, you couldn't change it then. The gears that spin inside the ring gear(the big gear should have 2 little gears that are mounted inside of it that spin) Just weld these 2 gears(the little ones) to the ring gear(big one) so they won't spin anymore. I am not familiar with the nickel brazing. Somebody mentioned that they built up their cam lobes with the stuff. If they can do that it should be alright in the rearend. I wonder about heating the gears though, I don't know if that will make them brittle or not. I try not to weld anymore on the gears than I have to for fear of making them brittle. Let us know how it goes. Tom
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tractorman
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« Reply #33 on: August 12, 2007, 07:10:44 AM » |
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Yeah I built up my cam in the 8 hp kohler I was going to use. But thanks I will post progress in ym build when I get it done.
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My mowmachine: 1980 Sears Craftsmen
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MTDrider1160
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« Reply #34 on: August 12, 2007, 06:01:07 PM » |
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Those gears are cast and heating them actually helps the weld penetrate better, just make sure after you heat then weld to reheat gradually lowering the temperature, or stick it in an oven after welding and gradually turn it down and then just let it aircool. But whatever you do DONT cool it down with water.
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"I'm a minority, therefore I only speak ENGLISH"
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mtd
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« Reply #35 on: March 11, 2008, 07:48:15 AM » |
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Also have you tried a spider gear box?  This method requires a little grinding for the extra gears to fit. But when you do this method you need to buy the same spider gears that were originally in bull gear shaft. Do you just stick the gears in there or do you half to weld them in to keep them there? |
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Chris
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« Reply #36 on: March 11, 2008, 08:48:01 AM » |
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Just stick 'em in
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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mtd
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« Reply #37 on: March 11, 2008, 09:07:56 AM » |
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Cool...And this is an effective way to lock it right?Like it wont let go any time soon will it?Because my atlma build is also going to be something we hall sheds around the yard with at the shop.And it will all be on pavement.And dont worry bout speed when doing that.I do it in 1st gear mid throttle.
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Chris
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« Reply #38 on: March 11, 2008, 09:28:13 AM » |
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It's better than welding it!
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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toxic_j_2007
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« Reply #39 on: April 22, 2008, 03:41:31 PM » |
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isn't that spider gearbox the setup guys over in heymow use to lock their t-axles? that pic looks familiar.
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Chris
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« Reply #40 on: April 22, 2008, 03:51:06 PM » |
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Yeah, that picture was from HeyMow
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Just because you move up in a class doesn't mean that you'll "loose" the "race", it just means that you're building a better, more capable machine. |
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